is it time to replace your router table with a shaper?
This article will help you to select the correct shaping and then use it to the maximum safety.
Depending on what you think of it, there is no difference between the shaper and the router table, or there is a big difference.
They are the same because they all work by highlighting the cutter or biting up through a hole in the table.
The workpiece then moves along the fence and passes through the cutter to form a profile that matches the cutter on the workpiece.
However, they are not the same in many other ways.
The first question you might want to think about is: consider the type of Cabinetmaking I do (
Or I might do that)
Do I have to have a shaper in the future, or will a simple router table work?
What determines the answer to this question is the size of the configuration file you want to create.
You don\'t need to have both the shaper and the router table as many of them can also rotate the router bit.
However, you cannot rotate the forming tool on the router.
If you are used to using the router and router table, the first thing you will notice when you first turn on the shaper is how quiet it is. The high-
The harsh whine sound from the router has been reduced to a quieter whirwhir sound, the signature sound of the shaper.
Folding: First of all, most shapers have a slower RPMs (7000 to 10,000)
Screaming than the router at 20 to 25,000 RPM.
However, when you look at the tip speed of the larger plastic knife, not the router bit, there won\'t be much difference in the speed of the actual cutting point.
Second, the router is directly driven when the shapers use a quieter belt-
Rotary drive system.
Because the whole knives are much larger than the router bit, they are different from the router bit connecting to the router.
The shaping machine uses a heavy metal spindle firmly attached to the bottom of the spindle.
The spindle usually has 4 sizes: 1/2 \", 3/4\", 1 \"and 1 1/4\" diameter.
Some machines have only one spindle, but some have two or more spindles.
There are two types of spindles: the spindle solid and the spindle interchangeable.
The switchable spindle has a hole at the top that allows you to install a spindle with a smaller diameter, or even a router drill bit card sleeve.
An interchanging spindle can also be installed.
Solid spindle for forming tool only.
The cutter, gasket, friction ring and/or ball bearing falls from the top to the spindle and is then fixed with the large nut provided.
The capacity of the spindle of the shaping machine is represented by the available space under the nut.
The larger the space, more knives and gaskets can be used together.
Another important person to pay attention to when shopping is the amount of spindle travel.
This number is related to the correlation between the spindle and the desktop.
This is related to the maximum thickness of the workpiece that can be shaped with a contour.
Multiple cutters and gaskets can be combined to create different profiles.
In general, the largest forming tool works better under lower RPMs.
Most shapers will provide you with two different speeds.
More expensive shapers can offer up to five.
Changing the speed is done by moving the drive belt to another pulley position, just like on a drill press.
And, like a drill press, the belt tension must be relaxed before this can be achieved.
On most shaping machines, this is achieved by simply moving the lever that releases the tightness of the belt, then moving the belt to another pulley position, and finally, by moving the lever back to its original position.
Most shapers have a groove for the Mitter gauge on the table and fence.
This is to shape small pieces safely and effectively.
Another piece of equipment related to safety is the starter.
This is a metal needle with threads at one end and a threaded hole is screwed on the table near the tool position.
When you start cutting with bare hands, it gives you a place to support the workpiece.
In the router table, you can use two types of router bits :(1)with or (2)
No ball bearing guide.
If there is no ball bearing guide rail on the router bit, the router table fence must be used.
The same is true of Plastic Surgeons.
The shaper can use a friction collarbone or ball bearing on the spindle to prevent the workpiece from being pulled into a tool deeper than the profile.
If you are using a tool that does not have a friction ring or a ball bearing, then you need to use a fence mounted on the table.
The Feed part of the fence is further away from the operator than the discharge fence.
This difference determines the depth of the cut.
Most shapers allow you to be micro
Adjust the fence settings for the desired results.
When shaping irregularities (not square)
Workpiece, you have to work with your bare hands, which is more dangerous than using a fence.
To do this, you may need to remove the fence or at least put it back behind the table.
You will need to build a different safety guard that can be made of a 3/16-thick round Plexiglass and drilled into a hole at the center point.
This shield must be a little wider than the rotation of the cutter.
It should be mounted on the top of the cutter or cutter on the spindle and then fixed down with the spindle nut.
Keep your fingers as far away from the cutter as possible while maintaining a strong grip on the workpiece.
After installing a friction ring or ball bearing, you can press the workpiece on the cutter without worrying about going too far.
The shaping machine can be a very dangerous machine if used improperly.
Anything I say or write in this article or anywhere else should not be interpreted as providing information that may cause people to do anything dangerous, harmful, harmful or fatal.
In fact, I would say that if you are not aware of the dangers that exist in carpentry, or are unwilling to take the necessary safety precautions, then you should take measures without delay and give up carpentry, never close to woodworking machines.
Here are some of the precautions you have to take when using the shaping machine for the safety of you and others in your store: 1)
Develop the habit of using some kind of protective device, or better yet, use the power supply.
The power feeder will completely cover the tool danger area and convince the workpiece to the fence when it passes through the tool.
Get the power feeder and use it as much as possible.
When a commitment is made to prohibit the use of a power feeder, at least a protective device is used.
Most molding fences have guards. Use the guard! 2)
Most plastic machines can operate forward or reverse.
This is due to the fact that some cutters or tool combinations require reverse operation of the shaping machine.
Before starting any cutting, determine the correct direction of rotation of the cutter or cutter on the spindle.
Then verify that the machine is set to the correct cutting direction.
If you send the workpiece into the shaping machine in the direction of rotation instead of the opposite direction of the workpiece, the shaping device can easily pull the workpiece out of your hand and fly in your store like a missile, it could have disastrous results. 3)
Never make small or thin things into shape.
Instead, shape a larger piece of wood than you really need, and then tear off what you need and put it on the table.
Small parts can easily become missiles as well.
Also, they cause your fingers to be too close to the cutter, and if they slide they can cause your fingers to be intercepted by the cutter. 4)
When doing free manual tasks with irregular workpieces, the starter pin is used.
It will give you more control and may prevent kickback. 5)
Whenever the end of a thin part such as a table or chair leg is shaped, a Mitter gauge with a hold-down clip is used.
If there is no Mitter gauge and clip, try this method by asking to go to the emergency room. 6)
Use the fixture as much as possible.
Fixture is a shop.
Manufacture or build other equipment to guide the cutting for reliable and safe results. 7)
Use eye and ear protection and put on dust cover.
The reason should be obvious.
There is also a suggestion, although this has nothing to do with safety, just like protecting the workpiece. Always shape (or rout)
The end texture of a square or rectangular workpiece is then highlighted along the side.
In this way, you have a good chance of shaping or routing chips
When you clean the side, at the end of the grain.
Also, if you are shaping the end grain, try to clip a back
Mount the workpiece so that it passes through the tool immediately after the workpiece, thus reducing the chance of the chipout.
If you can afford it, or think you might do a lot of end grain cutting, consider a machine with a sliding workbench.
In a mass production environment, it can pay quickly in case of saving time and repetitive precision.
Bob Gillespie woodworking planing bed review: Woodworking Tools review:©Robert M 2010Gillespie , Jr.