I bought a CNC router last spring to do some carpentry and processing aluminum.
I was also an obsession with e-patching, and later I realized that when I added the router to my store, I accidentally took my patching capabilities to another level.
Unfortunately, just knowing that I can make my own printed circuit board using a router (PCBs)
Not enough for them to pop up in front of me.
The learning curve is rather steep.
Also, I don\'t have any experience in producing or thinking about how to produce a PCB.
There is quite a bit of information on the Internet, but the information is very fragmented and it took me a while to find everything I needed, and put them together in a way that is possible from start to finish.
I hope to solve this problem for others with this instruction.
Just this step. by-
The process of creating your own PCB from anything but your imagination (
Hopefully at least a little bit of electronic knowledge. how).
A very basic outline of the process looks like this: everything is free except the tools and raw materials for this project, and all the software is cross-crossedplatform.
What a Wonderful World.
Before we start. . .
I know this is quite a long note with a lot of words.
I thought about starting, \"Call me Ishmael.
\"Don\'t be discouraged if you want to make custom PCB --
Complete all the steps.
I haven\'t found another guide that runs through the whole process yet, so I think this is where you want to go if you start.
The \"many words\" aspect comes from the fact that there are many choices on the way forward.
Also, engraving PCB is a complicated technical process and I would like to provide you with enough details so you can know with confidence what you are doing.
Once you \'ve gone through two or three steps and have a basic understanding of what you\'re doing, it\'s actually quite simple.
Believe it or not, I was able to complete the whole process in about an hour
No documentation was mentioned.
You can do the same soon.
So, let\'s start with Moby Dick about instructions for producing PCB with CNC router!
Why am I doing this, why are you doing this? or should you)?
Skip this if you already know you want to do this and don\'t care why I did it.
I will never know.
I am a professional software developer, but I have been fascinated by electronic hardware since I was a child.
In recent years, the launch of Raspberry Pi and Arduino platforms has given people like me access to electronics that can interact with the physical world (
It could be you too).
The natural place to start using these cool little inventions is the original type on the welded bread plate.
It\'s good, but it\'s obviously not permanent.
I need to keep doing something.
The pictures show a series of items from the breadboard to the perfboard.
Even on the breadboard, the project will soon become huge, ugly and difficult to manage (
See the second picture).
Weld the assembly and wires to the perfboard (
Third and Fourth Pictures)
This is my first step in making the project permanent.
But there is no problem with the performance board.
Here are the main issues I have: My goal is to be able to repeat my PCB project and minimize the time it takes to refactor the design to produce an update.
In doing so, I am also creating a better looking, more reliable PCB.
All in all, everything is better about this.
If you have a CNC router and need a piece of PCB, I can\'t think of a compelling reason to produce it in any other way.
By the way, I know there are other ways to produce a custom pcb, but I don\'t want to start playing with etching acid or any of them (
More dangerous)
Chemicals involved in the production of additives.
Now, let\'s talk about the equipment.
In order to cut the PCB on the CNC router, you obviously need the CNC router. Which router?
Almost all CNC routers are able to cut the PCB, however, the number of broken motherboards along the way and the final quality of the output will be highly dependent on the performance of the router.
I highly recommend E3 for BobcCNC if you haven\'t already chosen (second picture).
On the \"consumer\" level, it\'s a bit more expensive than some of the others, but much better than the other buildings I \'ve seen.
At its price level, this is definitely a cut above everything else (
I have not been associated with the manufacturer in any way and have not received anything approved --
I\'m just a happy customer).
The third picture shows the router that I currently store in the Cabinet (
I am not a happy customer of that manufacturer).
This is a typical child. $400 CNC router.
I use it to cut the pcb, but I will not do this unless I am in some kind of clamp because the vibration of the spindle motor causes the cutting burrs, which means extra manual post-routing clean-up.
If you do this often, or have other things that require a CNC router, you won\'t be sorry if you spend extra money on a better router.
Specifically, a router that connects a real AC router.
Bottom line: almost any CNC router works, but you will get better results, the less vibration your machine has, the less \"play\" it has on the x and y axes.
Cheaper routers with DC spindle motors tend to have these specific problems.
What software do I need?
There are a lot of options, but I am a huge fan of open source software and have a great choice for OSS.
For this Instructable, I use Fritzing to design the board, use FlatCAM to generate the gcode file needed for the CNC router, and pass the Gcode to the router using the universal gcode sender.
All of this will run on Windows, Linux, and macOS except FlatCAM.
It is not currently running on macOS (
Not easy anyway).
If you are a Mac user, I would recommend running FlatCAM in a Linux VM.
If you don\'t have a Linux VM setup yet and don\'t know how to set it up, here\'s a note for you.
I chose the best software option for my selection criteria, mainly for the first time to successfully finish from start to finish and then figure out how best to repeat the process.
These software choices will do the same for you without a budget or operating system barrier.
What do I need?
It took me months to experiment with bits.
When I buy bitcoin, I buy bitcoin in a cheap quantity, so I can\'t comment on which bitcoins are better than others.
I prefer to have something that I think is a one-off, and I am not upset when a person becomes dull or rested and needs to be thrown away.
I used three different bits when I cut the PCB: I tried a lot of ways to cut the boards using only one or two bits, but never got a satisfactory result.
So it\'s three.
What more materials do I need?
There are a few consumables and a tool that you need to keep going.
Now that you\'re sure this is for you and you know what tools you need, let\'s design a PCB!
You have some options for designing PCB software.
I want to go free, I prefer open source, Fritzing is to go
Apply in this category.
I \'ve used it to document my breadboard items so it\'s a natural choice.
For those who like eagles, I plan to release a manual in December covering the design of the board with eagles.
After a little experience with Eagle, I think Fritzing is the right choice for beginners who create custom PCB themes, and Eagle is a good \"graduation\" step.
When the Instructure is ready and put into use, the link to it will appear here.
If you haven\'t already, go here and download and install Fritzing.
When you open Fritzing, start a new file and you will see the default breadboard view.
Find the parts needed for the project in the parts panel (on the right)
, Then drag them onto the canvas.
I am working on the ESP8266 Development Board, voltage regulator, two capacitors, one junction box and two five-
Pin head for input/output (first image).
Personally, when I design the PCB, I don\'t connect the wires in the breadboard view, and I don\'t use the breadboard that is placed on the canvas by default.
When I set up the connection in the breadboard view and then tried to make the PCB, I spent more time dealing with the Fritzing decision (
And things that can\'t work later)
It took me a long time to design the PCB from scratch.
My photo shows the components arranged above the breadboard, which is how they keep the breadboard view throughout the project.
Now that your component is on the canvas in the breadboard view, click \"PCB\" at the top of the screen to switch to the PCB view.
This view is a bit confusing when you open it (second image)
, But don\'t start cleaning up before you handle several maintenance tasks, otherwise you will do more work for yourself later.
Click route in the menu, and then click auto route/DRC settings \".
Set the production type to custom, and then set the tracking width to extra thick \".
\"If your marks are a little thicker than those on a commercially made board, things will get better.
Note: Fritzing still uses the default tracking size 24 mil regardless of this setting, so you will need to resize the tracking separately anyway.
This setting will ensure that design rule checks that run later are consistent with your design.
Now click OK and you will go back to the PCB view, but there are two more things to set up.
First, at the bottom of the screen.
Verify that view from above is your current view.
Next to this, set the clickable layer to \"bottom \".
\"Now, I think, you\'re grinding one
You don\'t want to work on the wrong layer accidentally.
This is after a painful correction-the-
In fact, setting these settings correctly from the beginning will help avoid future frustration.
Now that your settings are in order, drag your components until they are roughly in your imagination (third image).
You\'ll adjust the position of the component later on, so don\'t worry that everything is perfect.
This can be interesting if you have never designed a PCB before.
\"My main suggestion is to start with the components of your most clumsy shape, the largest component or the one with the most traces, put it in the middle and work around it.
In my case, this is an ESP8266 Development Board, which is the central focus of the project.
You can see how I arranged it on the board, about which inputs and outputs I needed, and knowing where I needed to get the power and ground.
Your components are placed roughly where you want them on the board, so start making traces.
To do this, click and hold the mouse button on the orange/red lead and drag onto the connect lead.
For each trace you create, make sure to set the width to 48 mil in the inspector on the right.
If you use the width of the \"standard\" 24 mil for tracking, you will have problems.
When I add traces to the canvas, I like to route them roughly.
Sometimes it is difficult to obtain control over overlapping tracks in the user interface, so even if placement is temporary, some frustration can be avoided by keeping tracks away from each other.
Depending on how complex your design is, or how many components you add, you may need to take the time to rearrange the physical location of the components to get a pattern that enables you to have non-Cross-tracking.
Optional: I like to add mounting holes on the corners of the boards I made so I can install them on something (seventh image).
This also makes the cutting steps in the future easier.
If you want to do this, select the \"core\" part bin on the right, scroll to the bottom, and drag the holes in the PCB view onto the canvas.
I like to set the hole property to \"M3 screw 3 \".
2mm \", I set the ring thickness to 0. 1mm.
For the reason I will explain later, you need to add a small copper ring.
I strongly recommend doing so.
In the next steps, you will see a good completion of this addition to your motherboard.
It is also a common requirement to be able to install PCB, so you should make holes.
Once you have your marks (fourth image)
, You want to make sure everything meets the standards of Fritzing (
You didn\'t miss anything)
, So click route at the top of the screen, and then click design rule check \".
If any problems are found (fifth image)
, It will tell you in red and highlight the conflict.
Fix them if you get them (sixth image).
Your design is complete (seventh image)
, So click the export of the PCB at the bottom of the screen, and then click expand Gerber.
I suggest creating a separate folder for your gerber file.
There are a few.
Let\'s clean up before you move on to the next step.
Fritzing just generated 9 files in its gerber output and we only need to use 3 of them.
Deleting the 6 that we don\'t need will help keep the organization going later and you\'ll be aware of that.
Open the folder containing the gerber output file and delete all the files except to: OK!
You \'ve finished the design, so it\'s time to go to FlatCAM and get everything ready to go to the router.
This whole step is just the first.
Time configuration of FlatCAM.
This is a long step.
I did it on purpose because there is no guide to help me understand all the options and once I use this app it is clear that all the settings are correct, this makes everything easier.
This step is not actually as long as it looks on the surface --
I just used a lot of words to describe what you see because you didn\'t know most of it when you first went there.
It makes sense once you see it and read the explanation, and you no longer need that help.
FlatCAM is a very capable, efficient, thoughtful-
Well organized app.
This is also one of the least intuitive programs you may encounter, and it has so many options that it can be overwhelming.
When you use it for the first time, it will appear confusing and confusing.
Don\'t worry, though.
Once you \'ve used it a few times, everything will make sense and you don\'t need to refer to any external resources to know what you\'re doing.
When I say it\'s well organized and it\'s completely unorganized, you\'ll get what I mean very quicklyintuitive.
If you haven\'t done that yet, go to flatcam.
Organize and download to install FlatCAM.
Here are the installation instructions.
If you are running macOS, see my previous note on running FlatCAM from a Linux virtual machine.
Do not follow the macOS installation instructions.
It won\'t work unless you live in the past and are able to carry the latest version of FlatCAM with you.
I \'ve solved it, which is roughly the physical principle needed to get FlatCAM to work on macOS.
I can\'t find anywhere online to provide any guidance on how to configure this whole thing, so, welcome.
After months of testing and experimenting, here are my settings and some notes on how I came up with these values.
If you don\'t know what to use specifically, please use these as a guide.
Continue to open FlatCAM and click the Options tab in the upper left corner.
* Make sure the \"app defaults\" is displayed in the drop-down list \"-
Bottom list next to the Top Gear icon-left.
If not, that\'s it.
I assume you know how to use drop-down list. Wow!
You have already set it up.
It may be a bit rough, but it will really help you configure everything.
Also, you \'ve just learned a bunch of terms and good default settings that will come in handy later on. OK.
There are a few more things to mention before continuing to use FlatCAM on a regular basis.
They have something to do with some non-obvious user experience issues and you may get stuck or frustrated right away if you don\'t know: now we can use FlatCAM! * For the OCD-
Capable reader: It\'s not my fault that capitalization is inconsistent!
That\'s what the FlatCAM app does.
My obsessive-compulsive disorder is trying to replicate their characters. for-
But in its deep sadness, frustration, and confusion, it may confuse some of them. Sorry.
Putting your previously generated gerber file into the gcode that the router can handle takes quite a few steps.
I have promised before, and may promise again, it will make sense after you have done it a few times.
FlatCAM is really good.
Organized, this is just one necessarily difficult thing you are doing, and the UI lacks intuitive cues.
Look at the video.
This shows me the whole process in real time.
The second picture of this step is a basic description of my workflow.
It should help you visualize the process.
I follow two outlines to generate the files I need in FlatCAM.
You need to repeat each step in the first outline several times for each PCB, each target is slightly different, and the things done are slightly different.
The second outline defines these different goals and what to do later, and you will go through it once for each PCB.
Here\'s the outline so you can see what you\'re going to do --
Have not started clicking yet!
The specific steps are as follows.
The first outline describes the basic process from gerber to gcode.
These are the things you will do multiple times on each PCB.
It looks like this: the pattern of this outline is very repetitive (
Click this, click this, and click another. repeat. repeat again. repeat again).
You will soon become familiar with these patterns and be able to handle them efficiently in a matter of minutes.
The second outline is the actual CNC task I am performing.
For example, \"isolate the route with 0 engraving.
2mm bit, then drill-holes.
\"You can adjust these (
Hope to simplify them)
To meet your needs, but I find this a good workflow for producing fairly simple PCBs with consistent high quality.
Start with the second outline and execute each step from the first outline-to-finish.
In other words :. . . (steps 3 -6)
This is a linear and logical workflow through the process, reducing the steps of errors or accidental misses.
Don\'t ask me how I know.
Watch the video at the top of this step and you will see the process of playing on the real pcb I developed (
The same one shot repeatedly).
Now that you already know how these steps will work, let\'s take a look at the specifics.
If FlatCAM is not turned off after changing the settings, turn it off now. Open (or re-open)
Application.
Open your file first.
You have two gerber files that define the trajectory and pad geometry and a definition that runs through-holes.
You should see your design now. Yay!
You need to mirror the geometry before generating gcode.
When you design the circuit board in Fritzing, you design it from the angle of the topdown (
It\'s hard to design otherwise-for me, anyway).
However, the router will cut from the bottom angle
Up, so it needs to be mirrored on the y-axis.
For each project you start, you need to do this once: you have now done what needs to be done once for each new project so that you can continue to repeat the steps.
This is a good time to save the FlatCAM project and name it for the first time.
Click the File menu and save.
FlatCAM does not provide the file extension by default, so I like to provide \"one \".
Flatcam \", this does not leave too much blur on the applications needed to use the file.
After saving the project once, you can use CTRL-S/CMD-
We keep it as often as you like.
Now, I have completed each stage of the second outline.
If you\'re just reading the instructions and haven\'t finished the process yet, you\'ll want to go through the list.
Long and boring.
If you are completing the process, this will allow you to complete each step in detail: Remember I told you that I will explain later why you added 0.
Copper ring of mounting hole 1mm?
I hope you understand why now.
Doing so will push the boundaries of the board\'s \"copper area\" to match the margins around the mounting holes well and eventually you will get a \"border box\" and \"non-
Copper area with the same outer boundary \".
It makes the final output very good, minimizing manual cleaning. Awesome!
Now your router can use the gcode file!
However, I do not expect 7 CNC jobs to be reworked and started and stopped.
Since tools, setup, and using routers require manual intervention, I want to simplify the workflow by combining files with tasks that are slightly easier to manage.
Obviously, this is completely unnecessary.
You can run a gcode file you created at a time if you want.
However, it\'s not too difficult to combine gcode files, so you\'ll save some time if you do.
However, this step can be skipped.
If you follow my instructions, your file will be in serial number (01, 02, 03. . . )
, So they will appear in the order they want to run.
What you really do here is combine files 05, 06 and 07 so you don\'t have to look at the machine in the process.
The instructions below assume that you followed the previous steps and named files as I did.
If not, please see the previous step as the key to the file I am talking about here. 01, 0.
Outline 2 MM: I like-
It was not modified.
The purpose of this gcode is to test the depth of the tool around the boundary of the artifact.
You can skip running it, but I suggest running the test.
If this happens and your bit doesn\'t go all the way through copper around the board, you can adjust the zero point of the z axis and run the test again.
This is a way to verify that bit is in the proper depth to cut all traces before starting to dig important things.
Also, it runs very fast, so you\'ll know in a minute if you\'re okay.
Sometimes, if you don\'t test first, you won\'t know that your board is completely normal until the end of the job.
Just test.
Although this uses the same tools as the next job, I like to run them as separate jobs so I have the opportunity to make adjustments and run the tests again if necessary. 02, 0.
2mm isolation: If you run the test above and your bit depth is correct, just load this file and run it.
No changes are required.
This will be the last use of 0.
2mm bit, so you need to change to 0 after you have finished this file. 5mm bit. 03, 0.
5mm drill: this is the only use of this fragile tool, so again, there is no need to modify the file.
Just load the tool, zero the z axis, load the file and run it. 04, 1.
5mm outline: This is similar to the \"01\" file, but the depth of test 1. 5mm bit.
No changes are required.
Like the \"01\" file, I prefer to separate it from the gcode below, although it uses the same bit, so that I have the opportunity to adjust and run the test again if needed.
Other documents (05, 06 and 07)
: You will find out how good you are in copying and pasting.
Just save the file.
The original \"05\" file and \"06\" and \"07\" files are redundant.
You can throw them away.
I personally prefer to name the modified file \"05-1. 5mm-finish.
I then deleted the original \"05\", \"06\" and \"07\" files, but you are an adult and I can\'t make these decisions for you.
This moment has finally arrived!
Let\'s start cutting custom PCB!
Are you still with me? Awesome! Almost there.
Yes, I am learning the manual model, but we have not covered the lotion in my course yet.
This is where you can see the results of your work.
The first step is to load your blank inventory into the router.
There are many ways to stick your work on the router\'s bed, but I prefer doublesided tape.
More specifically, Scotch/3 m, 15 lbs, outdoor (exterior)double-sided tape.
I tried a lot of different tapes and this is the one I got the best.
My photo shows how I recorded the pcb, about 7. 5cm x 10cm.
On that small piece of board, I used two pieces of tape arranged in parallel, about 80% of the total width of the board.
If the board is large, I will make sure that there is tape in all four corners and that it is enough to keep my work pieces still during the cut-out process.
Because the tape has a lot of thickness/depth, you have to use at least two pieces of tape and using only one piece will take your workpiece off-balance.
Your router will most likely knock it off.
Also, do not use double
Double sided tape without thickness. It won\'t work. Trust me.
It is easy to press and hold the PCB with tape: there is no special trick to install the PCB into the CNC router, but if the results you encounter are not satisfactory, here are some nuances about PCB wiring, these differences often don\'t exist when you use other materials: Once double
The mounting side of the double sided tape is exposed and you \'ve lined up the board and stuck it to the router\'s bed.
When it\'s done, press it down to the router\'s bed.
You want to avoid getting oil from copper on your skin as much as possible.
I would suggest taking a shop rag to press on the board while wiping any previous residue.
Skin Oil and copper are not good-
Combination of terms.
Press it down with a little force (Don\'t be crazy-
Just push it)
A few seconds to make sure the tape is pasted correctly.
Now go to the second part: load the first bit and zero the axis of the router.
If you have used your CNC router before, you will be very familiar with the process.
I like to find an \"acceptable\" zero point for the X and y axes and then use a multimeter to find the exact zero point for the z axis.
Continue to load the first bit into the router.
This is a 0 if you are following my thread.
2mm, 20 °, titanium coated carbide, V-
Shaped engraving drill bit.
The only thing to keep in mind when setting the X-axis and y-axis is that your workpiece needs to fit perfectly with your blank.
Sometimes it\'s a bit tricky because FlatCAM doesn\'t always choose (0,0,0)
This is completely out of the range of the available artifacts.
For example, in the image I included in this step, I show the position where the zero point is slightly selected within the artifact boundary.
If I take my job0,0,0)
Position in the absolute lower left corner-
The corner of the hand board, I am missing a small piece of that corner.
So I\'m used to setting the X-axis and y-axis a few millimeters on the board, but the design of each board, as well as your personal choice, may need to make a different decision.
Setting the Z axis is an interesting part.
Accurate now!
Now is the time to load the gcode file and cut the PCB!
You can use any gcode sender you like.
It really doesn\'t matter at this point.
Use it if you have something you know how to use.
I\'m using a generic G. code Sender (UGS)
On the Raspberry Pi running Linux.
I prefer to run things this way so I don\'t have to put one of my \"real\" computers into the operation of my CNC router, but as I said, however, make gcode to your router and you are comfortable doing so.
I\'m a nerd, too.
The router is now zero, so load the first file and open the router (if necessary)
And run the file.
If you follow my example, the first file runs the bit depth test.
If it fails to cut copper all the way and all the way around the board to return that displacement to zero position, turn on the router (
This is important)
, Reduce the bit 0. 1mm (make it go 0.
1mm deeper on the z axis)
, Then reset the position to a new zero in the z axis by clicking the corresponding button in the gcode sender. Re-run the test.
Repeat the process until you get a round of testing where the copper is cut into the entire profile.
You just verified the very important Z-zero for the (
Also important)
The second file, so load the file, open the router and run the file.
This will take a while.
If all goes well, your marks and pads will be isolated from the rest of the motherboard.
Now, change to your second place (
This is a 0 in my example.
5mm straight position).
At this point, you need to reset the zero point of the z axis, and you may need to reset the zero point elsewhere on the board.
It\'s not uncommon for your zero point to have copper cleared!
If this happens, don\'t worry, as long as you accidentally press the button to reset the x-axis and y-axis, you can move the router anywhere in the field of work you want, your machine will know how to get back to where it was.
After loading the second bit, zero its Z axis as described above.
Since all your drill bits are metal, the Continuity test will tell you the exact time they come into contact with copper, so this method of zeroing to z axis is always effective.
We\'re not going to run a pre-
Test the depth of this bit because we deliberately set it up in FlatCAM to be deeper than the board.
Open the router and load and run the third file.
This will be fast.
You will want to see it until you feel it won\'t run too fast and it won\'t break.
Now change to third place (a 1.
5mm straight position)
And follow the process of setting the Z axis zero point.
Do you know what to do now?
It doesn\'t take a long time, does it?
The Fourth File tests the depth of this bit, so keep loading that file, open your router, and run the file.
If you need to make adjustments, please make adjustments as described above and proceed
Run the test file until it is successful.
In theory, if you need to make any adjustments in your first run of Tests, you need to make the same adjustments here.
I haven\'t fully tested the theory yet, but it\'s usually the case.
Now your Z axis is set to last time!
Continue to load the fifth file, open the router, and then run the file.
Again, it will take a while.
However, when this file is completed. . . It\'s done!
It\'s time to remove your work from the router and clean it up (if necessary).
Now that you \'ve done all the work, it would be a shame not to care how you remove your work from your router.
Here are some tips: sometimes manual cleaning is required when the artifact falls off the router.
You may need to adjust your settings if you find yourself doing a lot of cleanup (
Or replace your bit).
After your bot, you shouldn\'t spend more than a few minutes cleaning up.
If you do, you don\'t guide it correctly.
Most of my PCBs fall off the router under acceptable conditions, but usually one or two things need to be done to sort things out: you bought yourself a PCB!
Please do yourself a favor before you go ahead and test your marks.
Simply turn the multimeter to its ohrazer setting, touch one end of the track with one lead of the multimeter, and then touch the other end of the track with the other lead of the multimeter.
Repeat every trace.
If you have continuity between the ends of all the connected marks, you can fill the new plate with components and welding!
It\'s a big step, but what I\'m going to say is. . .
This is all about it!
Being able to produce my own pcb, my favorite thing is how quickly and easily I can update the design/layout and have a full working project in my hands.
For example, the specific board you often see in this Instructure has changed from scratch to version 8 in a few weeks.
Not only that, at the same time, I also produced at least a dozen complete products
The functional prototype and I now have 7 fully produced 8 version master boards.
This is the first time I want to learn the exact instructions I want to write about how to do this, so I want the rest of the planet to be as strange as I used to be (I’m better now)
Find it useful
Believe me when I tell you
Last time)
, Do this a few times and you don\'t need to reference any documentation anymore.
It\'s really not that hard, it\'s just a little boring.
But the result is definitely worth it!
Not only did my production capacity go up a notch, I was on a different planet compared to a few months ago.
Everything is faster, everything is easier, everything is more stable, everything is better.
This makes me happy with my constantly updated project and I hope it will be the same for you and your project.
This is not the structure I want to write.
When I started writing, my goal was to show how I made the backlight logo. Well. . .
As my project went on, the \"backlight logo\" turned into four different logos, with 36 consecutive hours of 3D printing, a custom logo
Made WiFi controller, Arduino project and mobile app for iOS and Android.
During the creation process, I thought that the way I wanted to implement it would require four separate tables of instruction.
Fortunately, one of them was recently written and published by someone else, so I only need to do three!
One down, two go.
This structure is the first part of the most complex (best)
Method of making \"logo\" project.
It can be done without a custom PCB, but it would be better to do so.
If you are eager to get your CNC router to work, make the pcb, but don\'t have the pcb designed by yourself yet, please stick to the second and third parts.
They will be here in November.
The second part will cover how to make your own WiFi controller and the third part will combine all of these features and document how I made all four logos.
The picture above is peek first for fast.
Update: The second part is here!
Look here. (
Link to WiFi LED light bar controller)
Part two and part three must come back.
The WiFi controller is amazing and the logo is really cool. Stay awesome (if you are)!