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building a cnc router
I have currently written a few Arduino tutorials on using sensors and controlling stepping motors: feel free to check and maybe leave some feedback, thanks!
Do you need parts for your project?
Check out my Amazon affiliate link below: structure will show you how I built the CNC router.
I hope you can get some inspiration from my build, this note will be helpful for your future project.
This Instructure shows all the steps I went through when designing and building this CNC router.
The main reason I like the CNC router is that it is very versatile.
You can use it as a drill, router, saw, mill, or even a lathe.
Because my workshop is very small (
More like a shed)
, I don\'t have room for all of these tools, but I still want to be able to make very precise parts for different projects.
That\'s why I started thinking about building a CNC router.
After doing some research, I decided to design and make my own machine.
It took me nearly 6 months to build and design this machine from start to finish.
Before starting the actual design of the machine, I did a lot of research on the Internet.
I suggest you look at the following website: cncroutersource. Com and cnczone. com.
These sites will provide you with a lot of information and answer most of your questions about CNC related topics.
Please note: I built this CNC router as the final project of the school (
Also known in the Netherlands as \"profield werkstuk \").
When I started building I was 16 and finished at 17.
While I have done several larger projects in the past and have been working on FTC robots for the past few years, I don\'t have that much experience in building CNC machines.
This machine is actually the second CNC machine I made.
The first one is a wooden test machine and I made it to gain some experience and learn more about CNC machines.
I am trying to make this machine as much as possible with the tools, knowledge and budget of the time.
I think this machine is very good. I hope you like it.
You have to do some design before you start making the machine.
Sometimes it only needs some sketches on a piece of paper, but for this machine, more accurate 3D drawings are needed.
I did my design with google sketchup.
Google sketchup is a free cad program that you can download from the Internet.
I found it very easy to use, although I have never used a cad program before.
By using other programs like Autocad, you won\'t be able to draw as complex a design as possible, but as far as I\'m concerned it works fine.
My main goal is to get all the right sizes for my parts so I can order them online.
I want to see if all my parts can be assembled together.
Since the machine consists of many moving parts, I want to make sure that nothing hits each other while running the machine.
When I started designing the machine, I already had some parts like linear guides and ball screws.
I bought these from people who made test machines for his online store.
I used the same electronics on this machine, just like the wooden test machine I made before.
These are the basic dimensions and parts for the machine: Overall dimensions X: 1050mm Y: 840mm Z: 400 stroke X: 730mm Y: 650mm Z: the length of the 150 rail and ball screws depends on the size of the machine you want to make. Electronics -
3x3 Nm Japanese 23 stepping motor-
3x DM556 stepping motor driver-
36 v power supply (
For stepping motor)-Breakout Board-
5 v power supply (
On the interface board)
OK: Ethernet Smooth Stepper (
Do not use the old LPT port). -ON/OFF switch-
Shielded 18/4 KW grid-
3x proximity sensor (limit switch)
You can also purchase a complete electronic kit including a stepping motor and drive.
The work is very good, but sometimes it will be of lower quality than the real Leadshine driver. -
Spindle: it would be better if you also want to cut aluminum and other non-ferrous metals, water cooled or air cooled spindle, Kress FME 800 or Bosch Colt or Dewalt compact router.
You can buy a kit with everything you need.
After completing my CNCOptional, I purchased this as an upgrade :-
Electronic case-Energy chain-
Linear guide rail: X: 20 Y/Z of SBR: SBR 16-
Ballscrews: X/Y: 16mm 5mm pitchYou can save a lot of money by purchasing kits that include linear guides and ball screws. -Z -
Shaft drive screw: M10 with self made delrin nut but the screw will be better-
Aluminum profile: 30/60mm Misumi 100mm-
Aluminum plate: 15mm thick-
CAD/CAM software: CamBam/Fusion 360
Controller Software: The Mach3 machine is almost entirely made of 15mm thick aluminum plates and 30x60mm aluminum profiles.
I built this CNC router with very limited tools.
The main tools I use are drilling machine and lathe.
Since I don\'t have the right tool to cut the aluminum sheet into the right size, I designed the machine around the standard size and ordered the sheet that has been cut into length online.
The aluminum profiles I used were also cut into length and I ordered these from misumi Europe.
When designing a CNC router, it is helpful to ask yourself a few questions.
Here you will find the design process I completed for my CNC router.
What type of CNC router do you want to build?
There are basically two types of CNC router: mobile Workbench design and mobile gantry design.
A small CNC router usually uses a mobile desk-style design.
They are easier to build than moving gantry machines and can build more rigid machines.
The disadvantage of making the table move instead of the gantry is that, in retrospect, the overall floor area of the machine is about twice the design of the mobile gantry.
So if your cut envelope is larger than about 30x30 cm, it\'s better to make a mobile gantry machine.
Since I wanted to make a machine that cut the envelope about 65x65 cm, I used the mobile gantry design.
What do you want to cut with a CNC router?
This almost determines every answer to the following question.
I would like to use this machine mainly for plywood, solid wood and plastic and also for aluminum.
If you want to cut the material harder than aluminum, I suggest you build a CNC factory instead of a router.
What materials will you use to make this machine?
This is determined by the above question.
A good guideline is that the material you use to build the machine is stronger than the one you want to cut.
So, if you want to cut aluminum, you should make the machine with aluminum or even steel.
I have seen wooden CNC router that can cut aluminum (
You will find some on youtube)
But the speed is very slow and the machine must be built very well.
Since I want to cut aluminum with this CNC router, I made it with aluminum.
I could have used steel, but it\'s harder to process and I don\'t have the right tools.
How long does each axis take?
My first intention was to build a CNC router that could handle plates of standard size, such as plywood and medium fiber boards.
These are 62x121 cm in the Netherlands. So for the Y -
I want a travel distance of at least 620mm m.
This machine is in a small shed in my backyard and the space is very limited.
I can\'t make the machine too big because that way it gets in the way of me and takes up all the space. So the X -
The stroke of the shaft is only 730mm.
This is less than the full length of a plywood (1210mm)
But I think if I want to process a very big thing, a can cut the first part instead of sliding the paper forward and cutting the last one.
By using this technology, you can cut parts much larger than the normal X-
Travel distance. For the Z -
I think 150mm is enough to use the fourth axis in the future.
What type of straight line motion will you use for the machine?
There are many options for linear motion: drawer slider, ball bearing on V rail, V-
Groove bearings, circular linear guide rails that are not supported, circular linear guide rails that are fully supported, and contour linear guide rails.
The linear motion system you use largely determines the quality of cutting you can achieve.
I suggest you buy the best system you can afford.
After doing some research, I found that full support for linear orbitals is the best option and I can still afford it.
If you search for SBR12, SBR16, or SBR20 on ebay or Amazon, you will find many different sellers and suits to choose from.
If you are building a 3-axis CNC router, you should buy a kit, each of which consists of three sets of linear rails and two linear bearings.
What kind of linear drive system will you use for each axis?
The basic options for driving each shaft are: timing belt, gear tooth rack and drive screw.
For self-made CNC routers, drive screws are the most commonly used.
The screw drive system works by placing the fixing nut on the moving part of the machine and fixing the screw at both ends.
The screw is attached to the motor.
If the motor starts to turn, the nut with the moving part of the machine will move along the screw and keep the machine in motion.
For the x and y axis, I used the ball screws.
The ball screws provide very smooth movement with almost no backlash.
The gap is the gap between the drive screw and the nut, which is something you don\'t want in the CNC router.
If you would like to learn more about the bounce, I suggest you check out the cncroutersource website. com.
The ball screw is more expensive than the ACME screw (
This is a good choice)
, But will again greatly improve the cutting speed and cutting quality. For the Z-
I am using high quality stainless steel M10 threaded rod with self made delrin nut.
What type of drive motor and controller are you going to use?
There are two basic options for the Motor: The servo motor and the stepping motor.
The servo motor is mainly used for high-end CNC router and is very expensive.
They use encoders to provide location feedback and need more expensive controllers.
Stepping motors are widely used on homemade CNC routers with many different types and sizes.
The size of the stepping motor you need depends on what you want to cut, how fast you want to cut, what type of linear drive and moving parts you use, how big the machine is, and so on.
My machine uses a 3Nm stepping motor, which may be excessive.
The controller must be suitable for the motor you use.
You can use a separate drive for each motor as I do, or you can buy 3 or 4-
Shaft drive board.
You can read more about the electronics I used in Step 14.
What type of spindle will you use?
Most homemade CNC routers use a standard Woodworking router or a trim router as the cutting spindle of the machine.
Mine is no exception.
I used a Kress router with a slightly higher quality than the standard wood router and it has a good 43mm clamping flange.
Some kind of speed control can be very convenient if you want to cut a lot of different materials.
The Kress router has speed control built in, but you will find this on most routers.
If you\'re going to do a lot of very heavy cutting, you might want to look at the air or the water cooled spindle.
You can also find these on Amazon/Ebay, but they are much more expensive than standard routers.
They use VFD for speed control, much quieter than the standard router.
What is the total cost of this machine? Do I want to spend so much money?
I estimate the total cost of this CNC router is about 1500 euros.
The CNC router is expensive but you can build one yourself and save a lot of money.
After I found the answer to all the above questions, I came up with the final design of my CNC router.
As you can see, my design is not very detailed.
For example, you will not see the exact hole position on all the parts.
If you \'ve never held these bolts in your hands before, it\'s hard to determine how many bolts you should use to assemble two pieces.
For me, this design is enough to give me a good idea of how everything will go and which parts I should order.
After the design has been completed and rejected/redesigned several times, I can start ordering all the required parts.
30x60mm aluminum profiles and all aluminum panels for gantry and Z-
The Axis I use for X-axis were pre-cut to length.
I ordered some heavy.
Vibrating flat feet. The X-
The shaft consists of a basic frame made of 4 pieces of 30/60 aluminum profile and two ends of 15mm thickplates.
There are two 6.
The end of the profile has 8mm holes.
I made an M8 thread with a metal tap on the inside of the hole.
After that, I carefully listed the position of the end holeplates.
I actually clamp the two boards together while drilling to make sure the holes are aligned at both ends.
I also drilled four holes in the middle of each plate to install the bearing block.
I drilled four extra holes on one of the side plates to connect the motor holder.
I made 4 pieces to keep my feet flat.
The block is aluminum (50x50x20).
I used four m5 bolts and t-
NUT to install them on the external extrusion.
The linear guide rail is mounted directly on the aluminum profile. For the X -
Shaft, I used a track with a diameter of 20mm. The pre-
Drill holes at the bottom of the linear guide-
Exactly the same as the slot in the aluminum profile.
I can use m5 bolts and t-nuts.
The gantry side plate is almost the same.
The only difference is that one of the four extra holes is used to connect the motormount.
The whole gantry is made of 15mm thick aluminum plate.
Drilling on the side plate is very simple.
Although I have to work very precisely.
To make the holes accurate, I carefully marked their position and then I used a center punch to make a small turf.
Then I went to the drill press and used a center drill bit to make a hole that guided the actual drill bit.
For larger holes, I use smaller bits first before using the final size bit.
Because of the way I designed the gantry, I had to drill holes on the end face of the side plate.
I was going to do this on the drill press, but the parts don\'t fit under it.
So I had to come up with a different solution: using a lathe.
I made a special bracket on the moving bracket of the lathe.
I drilled two more holes on each board to keep them in position on the carriage.
Now, I can easily drill the perfect hole at the end of the side plate.
The only thing left to do is dig the holes in the M8 thread.
The rest of the gantry is made the same way as the side panel.
The most difficult part is to arrange the linear guide correctly.
The linear guide must be aligned with the edge of the plate.
When marking the exact hole position, I clip two pieces of aluminum profile to the side of the plate to align the guide rail.
Once I marked the position of the holes, I drilled them with M5 threads and tapped them.
When connecting the guide rail to the gantry, you must ensure that the distance between the guide rails is completely uniform over the entire length (
The track must be parallel).
I used the same method as the side plate to drill holes in the end face.
I made some angle brackets to increase the extra stiffness of the Assembly.
During the final assembly of the machine, I actually left them out because I felt I didn\'t need them.
The plate at the bottom of the gantry is very simple.
I drilled 6 holes and attached it to the side plate.
In the middle, I had to drill two holes to install the nut holder. The Y-
The shaft bracket consists of a plate with 8 linear bearings attached to it.
Drilling is very direct but must be very precise.
Linear bearing of Y-axis and the Z-
The shaft is attached to this board.
Because the bearing is very close, even if it is slightly wrong, it will cause the bearing to be blocked.
I only made 0 holes.
Size 2mm but I have to drill them to 0.
5mm align bearings correctly.
In order for the carriage to slide easily from one side to the other, I had to make some adjustments.
Both the track and the bearing need to be adjusted.
I use high quality digital calipers to align them as much as possible.
When I made the drive nut installed in Y-
Shaft, I drilled two extra holes on the plate to connect it.
I also tried for Z-
The better the axes, but I still have to adjust them when I get the rest of the Z-axis finished.
Linear rail of Z-
The axis is connected to the moving part of Z-axis assembly.
The track needs to be offset several millimeters from the edge of the plate.
I used it and I was in Y-
Axis, align them.
I have found two pieces of plastic that are exactly the right thickness and I can use them as spacers.
I know the edges of the aluminum plate are parallel, so I clip two pieces of aluminum on the edge of the plate and add some plastic to separate the rails from the edges.
Once I marked the position of the hole, I drilled it again and knocked again.
Make sure you mark where the pieces go so that the holes still align when you put everything back together.
Install the top plate to Z-
Shaft assembly, I drilled three holes at the end of the router mounting board.
I made it on the lathe and I was in Y-axis plates.
I was going to attach Z-
The shaft stepping motor goes directly to the top plate.
So I am trying to grind some slots on the top plate to connect the stepping motor.
Since I don\'t have the proper milling setup, this is not solved very well.
So I cut off the parts with slots and made a different motor bracket with plastic (see step 12).
I also made two bearing blocks with the same plastic material and they are attached to the top plate as well.
The driving screw is a stainless steel threaded rod (M10).
The drive screw is sandwiched between two bearings with two nuts.
I drilled an M10 thread and tapped the timing pulley and screwed it to the top of the drive screw.
It is fixed in place by three fixing screws.
Delrin drive nut is connected to Y-axis carriage (see step 10).
Router installation is pre-
I ordered it from damencnc. com.
It has a 43mm clamping ring that fits my Kress router.
If you want to use a water cooled spindle as an upgrade, a bracket is usually included in the kit.
If you want to use a dewalt or bosch router with a cylindrical body, you can also purchase these brackets.
I don\'t want the motor to come out of the machine.
Because this will increase the overall size of the machine by about 15 cm on each axis.
Usually, you will install the motor on the outside of the machine using a special motor bracket or bracket.
In this way, you can coupling the motor directly to the ball screw with some kind of flexible coupler.
This is how I did it on the first wooden prototype I made.
This may be good for most people.
But I found that because the machine is in a very small shop, the motor really gets in the way.
Because they stick to nearly 20 cm (Motor support)
I often meet them.
That\'s why I put the motor inside the new machine.
By doing so, I can\'t coupling the motor directly to the ball screw, but I have to use the timing belt and the pulley.
I ordered the timing belt and pulley from belingonline. co. uk.
They have a variety of types and sizes.
I used the htd4 belt and pulley 9mm wide.
When connecting the motor to the drive screw using a belt drive, you can use the gear to slow down.
By using smaller gears on the motor, you can use smaller motors and still get the same torque (
Although of course you will lose speed).
Because my motor is very large, I don\'t need to slow down in order to get more power.
To save some money, I ordered the timing pulley with no holes for fixing screws and only one guide hole in the center.
I drilled the hole to the correct size with a lathe.
To drill holes for the fixing screws, I made a small fixture with some hexagonal steel bars with the lathe and drilling machine.
The motor bracket is made of aluminum pipe. Mine were pre -
You can cut it to a certain length when I order them, but you can also cut it into square with a piece of steel pipe.
Motor support for X and Y
Shaft, must be able to slide in and out to stretch the timing belt.
If you use a normal coupler to connect your stepping motor, I suggest you make or purchase some brackets.
I made the slot with the lathe and drilled a big hole on one side of the bracket, but you can also do that on a regular drill press.
I first made a big hole with holsaw on one side of the bracket.
This enables the motor to be flush with the surface and ensures that the shaft is centered.
The motor is fixed on the bracket with four M5 bolts.
I made four slots on the other side of the bracket to allow it to go in and out.
I clip this part on a special lathe attachment to grind four slots.
Bearing blocks for X and Y
The shaft is made of 50mm aluminum round Rod material.
I cut four equal slabs, 15mm thick each.
Then I face the blanks on each side of the lathe.
After marking and drilling the four mounting holes, I used the lathe to drill a large hole in the center of the blank.
Then I made a cavity for the bearing.
The bearing must be pressed in, and then the block bolts are fixed on the end plate and the side plate.
I drilled a hole at the end of the ball screws and fixed them in the proper position.
By inserting the bolts, I can tighten them to the angular contact bearing.
On the lathe, the end of the ball screw is lowered to 11mm.
This is the part that the timing pulley is connected.
The end of the ball screw is turned down a bit until 10mm so that it can be pressed on the bearing.
At the floating end of the ball screw, I just used the standard ball bearing.
I didn\'t use the ball screw for Z-axis.
Instead, I used the standard but high quality M10 screw bar.
I made a nut with a piece of delrin.
Delrin is a very good material for this because it is self
It will not wear out over time.
If you use a high quality tap to make the thread in the nut, the backlash will be very small (
I haven\'t noticed yet. . Inside the Z-
Shaft assembly, the space to install the nut is very small.
Since my homemade nuts are round, I need to make a special mount.
The bracket consists of two pieces of 12mm acrylic resin.
I was able to make these parts using my school teacher\'s homemade CNC router.
The round nut is installed in the acrylic sheet very comfortably and is secured in place by a small bolt.
The Bolt prevents the nut from rotating inside the bracket.
I drilled and knocked two holes on the little foot of the stand in order to be able to mount it to Y-
Bearing load of X axis and y axis, I made a different drive nut installation with a piece of aluminum.
There are two small flanges on one side of the ball nut with three holes on it.
I attached the nut to the bracket with a hole on both sides.
The bracket is made of a piece of aluminum and processed on the lathe.
Because I didn\'t grind, I used a lathe with a four-jaw chuck.
These parts must be processed very precisely.
Once you connect the nut to the gantry and Y-
Shaft carriage, you should be able to easily move these parts from one side to the other by hand turning ballscrews.
If the size of the bracket is incorrect, the NUT will get stuck and you can no longer turn the ball screw with your hands. The Z-
Shaft motor installation is different from other installation.
It is made of 12mm acrylic and also cut with a CNC router made by my teacher.
I was going to use a piece of aluminum as a stand, but the processing was too difficult.
Belt tension can be adjusted by loosening the two bolts at the top and sliding the entire motor mounting assembly.
12mm acrylic currently works fine, but I might replace it with a piece of aluminum in the future.
I found that the YA acrylic board would bend a bit when I tightened the belt.
The last part I have to do for the machine is the cutting bed.
The cutting bed is a very important part of the machine and is often overlooked.
There are many different types of cutting beds.
For example: t-
Slot desktop, perforated desktop, vacuum desktop, or you can screw your inventory to the table using a disposable desktop. An aluminum t-
The slot desktop may be the best, but it will cost you hundreds of dollars depending on the size of your machine.
I chose to use a perforated desktop because it fits my budget and I still have a lot of clamping options.
The cutting bed of my machine is made of a 18mm thick birch plywood.
I used M5 bolts and t-
Slot nut for aluminum extrusion.
I bought about 150 M8 hex nuts for $4.
Using the CAD program, I draw the hexagon in a grid with a hole in the middle.
Then I cut off all the pockets of the nuts with the machine.
You can also use T-
Nuts, but you have to flip the desktop to insert them.
Another problem you may have is that they fall off.
On top of a birch plywood, I installed a 25mm thick medium fiber board.
This is a disposable surface.
I used a larger router to drill holes in both parts.
The holes are perfectly aligned with the center of the hexagonal shape cut in front.
I then unscrewed a mid-fiber board and installed all the nuts on the plywood.
I made these holes a little small so I had to smash them in with a hammer.
I then reinstalled the mid-fiber board surface and checked if the alignment was still correct.
I also level the table top to make sure the surface is parallel to the x and y axes and is completely flat.
The electronic equipment of my machine consists of the following components: main power supply-
48VDC 6, 6Amp 3 drivers-
Thunder M542 V2.
0 3 Stepping Motor-
Hybrid AC relay at 3Nm
Output: 4-25 A, vac
32 VDC input main power switch power supply for breakthrough outside-
5VDC power supply for cooling fans-
12VDC2 cooling fan (80mm)
2 power outlets-
For Kress router and store vac E-stop -
Limit switches still need to be installed-
Installation is still required. This will be a great electronics kit: If you don\'t want to spend a lot of money on electronics, you can buy a kit from Amazon.
There are many different sellers for 200 of the price
Before ordering the kit, you should consider what size of stepping motor you need.
I you are making a machine that cuts only 270 ounces or 1 ounce of wood and plastic.
The 9 nm motor will provide you with sufficient power.
I chose the 3Nm motor because the machine itself is big and heavy and I plan to process some more difficult materials like aluminum in the future.
You can use 3-if your motor is not too big-
Even though it is better to use a single drive, use the shaft drive board.
A single drive can handle more amplifier and feature breakdown.
They are more reliable and will give you better results.
The driver I use is actually included with the kit I ordered.
They can handle up to 4, 2 amps and up to 125 microsteps.
The main power supply is connected to the driver with the No. 14 gauge line, which is mainly used for RC aircraft.
These wires are very flexible but of high quality and can handle a large number of amplifiers.
5 VDC power supply is connected to the main power inlet.
For cooling fans, I installed a power outlet inside the enclosure so I could power them with a standard 12 v wall adapter.
The main power supply is turned on and off via a large power switch.
The 25A relay is controlled by a computer through a circuit breaker.
The input side of the relay is connected to the output side of the disconnect.
The relay is connected to two power outlets to power the Kress router and shop vac to suck away the shavings.
When the Gcode ends with the command M05, the machine will automatically switch shop vac and router.
To open them, you can press F5 or use the Gcode command 3. 3.
Since I installed the electronics on a piece of wood temporarily, I still have to make a good case in order to test the machine.
I drew the rough size and position of all the components on a piece of paper.
I am trying to arrange them in such a way that I can easily get to all terminals to install the wires.
I also make sure to get enough airflow through the housing.
This is very important because the step controller can be very warm.
All cables can be connected on the back of the housing.
I used special 4 wire plugs because I wanted to be able to disconnect the electronics from the machine without having to screw off any wire terminals.
I have also installed two power outlets to power the spindle and the shopvac.
The power outlet is connected to the relay to automatically turn the router on and off in mach3.
I installed a large power switch in front of the housing.
Once I arranged all the components the way I wanted them, I designed all the components and made the case with a CAD program.
I then cut all the sides and bases using the CNC machine itself.
I made a lid with a piece of plexiglass in the middle.
I then installed all the components and tried to keep the line clean as much as possible.
To control the CNC router, you need 3 different types of software.
A CAD program that creates a drawing.
Create a CAM program for tool path and output G-code.
And a controller program that translates G-
The code and control of the router.
I am using CamBam to create most of my drawings and create toolpaths.
CamBam is a simple program that is very easy to use.
It has some basic CAD functionality, so you don\'t need a different CAD program for most projects.
You need to set several parameters before CamBam creates a toolpath.
For example: the diameter of the tool you are using, the depth of cutting, each depth, the speed of cutting, etc.
After creating the toolpath, you can output G-code. The G-
The code is a machining language that tells the machine what to do.
For the mach3 controller software I use.
Mach3 sends the signal to the breakout board through the computer\'s parallel port.
Use Mach3 to zero the tool and start the cutting program.
You can also use it to control the spindle speed and the cutting speed.
Mach3 has some basic Wizards built into it that you can use to output simple G-code files.
An example is the write Wizard, which you can use to quickly write some text and output it to G-code. (
See Step 17 for examples).
After several months of work, the machine was finally finished.
The first thing I did after the initial test was to keep-down clamps.
The first \"big\" project is the electronic housing you see in step 15.
I have also been cutting some different types of gears and some signs.
I bought some guitar pick boxes at my Etsy store.
One thing I quickly realized is that the CNC router creates a lot of dust, and the sound is loud.
To solve the dust problem, I made a dust shoe that could be pasted with a shop vacuum cleaner on it.
It is more difficult to reduce the noise level.
My parents paid for the material cost of building a full shell for this machine.
So I made a big cabinet where the CNC machine is located. I used noise-
The absorbing plate covers the interior of the wall.
Electronics and vac stores can sit in two different compartments under the machine.
The cabinet really lowered the noise level and made it more interesting to use the machine.
So this is it.
Now you know how I built my CNC router and why I did it.
While you may not be building an exact copy of my machine, I hope you can draw some inspiration from my design and construction.
By building this CNC router, I learned a lot and am very looking forward to using it in future projects.
I would like to thank my school teacher, Nop Velthuizen, who gave me the opportunity to make this machine.
He allowed me to come to his own workshop and use all the tools I needed to build this CNC router.
He gave me a lot of information and inspiration and helped me successfully complete the project where needed.
Please leave a comment if you have any questions and I will answer your questions as soon as possible.
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